For most people walking the Camino de Santiago means a month walking across northern Spain covering about 800 km, (500 miles). So it is not surprising that most of us plan on a few rest days along the Camino. Below are some of the towns and villages that I suggest are good places to stop for a day and be a tourist instead of a pilgrim.
Why a Rest Day?
It is fairly easy to walk 10km; if you are fit enough it is easy to walk 25 or 30 kilometres. However you body starts to feel the strain when you walk day after day. Muscles you did not know existed hurt, and sometimes they strain – at this point it is a good idea to rest otherwise you run the possibility of not being able to finish.
Two Trains of Thought
There are people who want to walk every day even if it is just 5, 10 or 15 km. If you are used to walking 30km everyday then 10km feels like a rest. This has been my usual way of taking a few easy days when needed. Others like to take a full day off and have two nights somewhere. If you fall into this category I suggest booking a hotel or Casa Rural / Pension, much like a Bed and Breakfast. If you are having an extra night somewhere most pilgrim hostels don’t allow you to stay more than one day except for medical reasons, (though many private albergues will allow this). And really do you want to get woken at 6am or earlier with noisy pilgrims on your day off? After a week sleeping in albergues and hostels I looked forward to the feel of clean sheets, a real bed, and a room to myself – so a hotel is well worth the price.
St Jean Pied de Port
The Camino Frances starts in St Jean, so why have a rest before you start? This is normal for visitors from other continents. Starting to walk while suffering from jet lag or having just finished two days travel is not the best start to your pilgrimage.
St Jean Pied de Port is a pretty little market town nestled in the foothills of the Pyrenees that separate France and Spain. There is enough to keep you occupied for a day or so.
Pamplona is the first major city on the way and famous for its San Fermin festival and the running of the bulls, (July 6 to 14). It normally takes three days to walk from St Jean to Pamplona, so this might be a little early to have a day off. However Pamplona is a beautiful city with tapa restaurants on every corner.
Other sites to see in Pamplona include:
- The 14th century Gothic Cathedral
- Museum of Navarra
- The two 13th century Gothic Churches of San Sernin and San Nicholas
- And in the evening before eating have a stroll around the old city walls
Burgos, the capital of Castile, comes after thirteen walking days. It is not a city well know outside of Spain, however it contains one of the best and oldest Gothic Cathedrals in Spain. The city is home to El Cid, evidenced by the many statues.
The Museum of Human Evolution is the best museum in the city to visit; it is housed in a futuristic looking building built on old barracks. The museum aims to be one of the top ten in Spain.
Ten miles outside of Burgos are the Atapuerca Mountains. This is the main reason for the above museum being situated in Burgos. Excavations in the area have discovered the earliest humans remains in Europe at 1.2 million years old. The local tourist office can supply information on tours to the caves.
Ponferrada is another small city that few people will have heard off, however it is a great size to stop in for a rest day. It has it all in miniature; a Templar Castle, the Renaissance Basilica de la Encina with its baroque towers, and the Museum de El Bierzo which contains the history and important archaeological pieces from the area.
Santiago de Compostela
I stayed in Santiago for three days, one day two long. It is a small city and a tourist city and after being a pilgrim walking the Camino Frances in peace and quiet it was overwhelming. You have to see Santiago Cathedral, meet with friends that have been made along the way, but it not a place for quiet relaxation.
If you are not a city person there are lots of small villages and market towns along the way to rest in. Often the best way is just to rest when you are ready, rather than planning ahead and creating a timetable for yourself; however if you have certain sights you want to see then planning your rest days on the Camino de Santiago might be a good idea.