Palas de Rei was referred to as the Royal Palace in the first pilgrims’ guide from the 12th century, however, there is little in the town now to remind us of its historic past.

There is the Church of San Tirso which has a Romanesque portal and scallop shells decorate a medieval building; it is a strange contrast to the wealth of the surrounding countryside which has 20 Romanesque Parish churches from a total of 43 within the Palas parish.

Albergue Xunta, Carretera de Compostela, 19, €6, 60 beds, W, D, K, Bike, Tel: 660 396 820, open all year

Albergue Buen Camino, Rua do Peregrino, private, €10, 40 beds, W,D, K, M, Bike, Tel: 982 380 233, Web: http://www.alberguebuencamino.com/, open mid Mar to Oct inc.

Albergue Mesón de Benito, Rua da Paz, private €10, 100 beds, W, D, M, @, Bike, Tel: 982 103 386, Web: http://alberguemesondebenito.com/, open Apr to mid Oct.

Albergue Castro, Avenida de Ourense 24, private, €10, 56 beds, W, D, @, M, V, Bike, Tel: 609 080 655, http://alberguecastro.com/, open all year.

Albergue Outeiro, Plaza de Galicia 25, private, €10, 50 beds, W, D, @, V, Bike, Tel: 982 380 242, Web: http://www.albergueouteiro.com/en/, open Mar to Oct inc.

Albergue A Casina di Marcello, private, €10, 17 beds, W, D, K, V, @, Bike, Tel: 640 723 903, Web: http://www.albergueacasina.com/, open all year.

Albergue San Marcos, private, €10, 71 beds, W. D. K, @, V, Bike, Tel: 982 380 711, Web: http://alberguesanmarcos.com/, open unknown.

One wonders if Aymeric Picaud, author of Codex Calixtinus, had an experience during this stage. He wrote:

Innkeepers’ servants along the Road to Santiago who take pleasure in seduction for illicit gain, are inspired by the Devil himself to get into pilgrims’ beds at night, are fully reprehensible. Harlots who go out to meet pilgrims in wild parts between Portomarin and Palas de Rei for this purpose should not only be excommunicated, but also stripped of everything and exposed to public ridicule, after having their noses cut off.

Today’s Walk: 28.5 km (17.7 mi)

Palas de Rel to Arzua Map

Today is an easy day, apart from the length of the route, it is easy underfoot and there are no long steep ascents or descents. The Spanish call this section the “leg breaker” not due to the surface, but due to the length.

If you have been walking for the last two weeks or more you will find it quite an easy stroll in comparison to much of the way already walked.

Today again you are only a couple of kilometers between towns and villages, therefore filling up with water or eating is easy and you don’t have to carry any food with you – unless you want to relax and eat outside somewhere.

I see this day as the start of the countdown to Santiago de Compostela. Shortly after Coto, there are stone markers at the side of the path with the distance to Santiago marked.

Much of the day is shaded and shortly after Melide, where the Camino Primitivo joins the Frances, you will walk through Oak and Eucalyptus forest with the wonderful smell. Melide is where the Camino Primitivo joins with the Camino Frances.

San Xulian

San Xulian on the Camino

3.6 km (2.4 mi), Cafe in the albergue

Albergue O Abrigadoiro, private, €12, 12 beds, W, D, M, B, @, Bike, Tel: 982 374 117, Web: closed. open Easter to Nov inc.

This village has historic links with Saint Julian, hence the name. Legend has Saint Julian a noble soldier killing his parents by accident. To expurgate his sin he founds a hospital for pilgrims.

He is later visited by an angel who tells him that he has been granted a divine pardon. There is a small Romanesque Parish Church San Julian do Camino which illustrates the devotion to the saint in this area.

Ponte Campana

1 km (0.6 mi), Bar

Albergue Casa Domingo, private, €10, 18 beds, W, D, M, B, V, Bike, Tel: 982 163 226, Web: http://alberguecasadomingo.com/, open May to Oct inc.

Mato Casanova

1.7 km (1.05 mi), Bar, Cafe, water

Albergue Xunta, Del Camino de Santiago, 61, €6, 20 beds, W, D, K, Bike, Tel: 982 173 483, www.xacobeo.es,open all year

Albergue A Bolboreta, 1.5km off route signposted, private, €13, 22 beds, W, D, M, Bike, Tel: 609 124 717, Web: http://www.abolboreta.com/, open all year.

Lobreiro

Furelos Bridge

3.6 km (2.2 mi) Bar, Cafe, Water

Municipal Albergue, very basic, one WC, on the main road in the village, €6, 20 beds, open all year, Tel: 981 505 003

Lobreiro was an important stop on the pilgrim’s road when Aymeric Picaud wrote in the 12th century, but not now. The village has a Romanesque Parish Church of Santa Maria with a beautifully carved figure of the Virgin on the portal.

Opposite the church is a building that was once a pilgrims’ hospital. You can still see the coat of arms belonging to the Ullo family, who founded the hospital, on the facade of the building which is known to have existed in the 12th century.

Before Melide you cross a four-arched medieval bridge that spans the river into the village of Furelos. The village still has a medieval air; in the center is the Church of San Juan beside this a pilgrims hospital was once located.

Melide

Melide Spain

5.6 km (3.5 mi), All services

Albergue Xunta, Rúa San Antonio, €6, 156 beds, W, D, Tel: 660 396 822, open all year

Albergue O Cruceiro, Ronda de A Coruña, 2, private, €12, 60 beds, W, D, @, Bike, Tel: 616 764 896, Web: http://www.albergueocruceiro.es/, open Mar to Oct inc.

Albergue Turistico O Apalpador, c/ San Antonio, 23, private, €10, 30 beds, W, D, K, @, Bike, Tel: 981 506 266, Web: http://www.albergueoapalpador.com/, open all year.

Albergue Melide, Avenida Lugo, 92, private, €10, 42 beds, W, D, B, @, Bike, Tel: 981 507 491, Web: http://www.alberguemelide.com/, open Apr to Oct.

Albergue San Anton, Calle San Antonio, 6, private, €10, 36 beds, K, B, V, W, D, @, Tel: 698 153 672, web: http://alberguesananton.com/

Albergue Pereiro, 43 Rua Progreso, private, €10, €6 winter, 40 beds, W, D, @, V, Bike, Tel: 981 506 314, Web: http://www.alberguepereiro.com/, open all year.

Albergue O Apalpador II, 23 Calle de San Antonio, private, €10, 32 beds, W, D, K, @, Bike, Tel: 679 837 969, Web: http://www.albergueoapalpador.com/, open all year.

Melide is a busy market town that has a long history with the Camino. In the middle ages, there were 100 families living here, (1,575), most were innkeepers and four large hospices for pilgrims. One of these hospices had 12 beds to sleep 24 pilgrims – 2 to a bed was typical.

On the route into Melide is the Church of San Pedro. Internally, there are some fragments of 15th-century mural paintings, however, in front of the church, there is a 14th-century cross that is one of the finest in Galicia depicting God the Father and the Crucifixion with Maria.

The Church of Santa Maria de Melida was once outside of the town, however, over the years it has become part of the suburbs. It is a 12th-century Romanesque single-nave church with a barrel vault. Although the church dates from the 12th century the frescos are 15th century; the central deity is the Trinity rather than the Virgin.

Boente de Baxixo

Boente Spain

5.2 km (3.2 mi), food shop, cafe, bar, water

Albergue Boente, private, €11, 22 beds, W, D, @, Bike, Tel: 981 501 974, http://albergueboente.com/, open all year.

Bar Os Albergues, private, W, D, @, M, B, Bike, Tel: 981 501 853, open Apr to Oct.

There is a small Parish Church of St James with Santiago seated like the statues in Santiago cathedral. However, it has little artist merit in comparison to the cathedral.

Castaneda

Castaneda Spain

1.2 km bar, water

Albergue Bar Santiago, private, €11, 6 beds, W, D, M, B, Bike, Tel: 981 501 711, open all year.

Castaneda was famous for the furnaces where lime was prepared for use during the construction of Santiago cathedral. Picaud mentions it as a place where stones that have been picked up by pilgrims in Tricastela, where the quarries were, to obtain lime for the work on the basilica of the Apostle.

Ribadiso da Baixo

Ribadiso albergue

3.5 km (2.2 mi), bar, cafe, water

Albergue Xunta, €6, 70 beds, W, D, K, Bike, Tel: 981 501 815, www.xacobeo.es, open all year

Albergue Los Caminantes, private, €10, 56 beds, W, D, K, V, @, Bike, Tel: 647 020 600, Web: http://www.albergueloscaminantes.com/, open Mar to Nov, double rooms €35 to €38

Horreo in Ribadiso

The Xunta pilgrims’ hostel was once “Hospital de San Anton de Ponte de Ribadiso” dating from the 14th century, it has been restored to be used again as pilgrims albergue.

Ribadiso da Carretera

Camino milestone

Alber Milpes, private, on the road, €10, 28 beds, W, D, @, M, B, Bike, Tel: 981 500 425, open all year.

It’s a 3.1-km (1.9 mi) walk from Ribadiso to Arzua, you’ll find all facilities there.

Key: W = Washing, D = Drying, M = Menu, @ = Internet, K = Kitchen, B = Breakfast, V = Vending, Cred = Credential

Palas de Rel to Arzua Elevation Map

Does this page need any updates or new albergues added? Please let us know in the comments below.

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