Day 29 Sarria to Portomarin – 23.1km, 5 hours
If you start your Camino de Santiago on the Camino Frances in Sarria, as many do, remember to have your Pilgrim’s Passport stamped twice each day if you want your Compostela on arrival in Santiago de Compostela.
If you don’t already have your Pilgrims Passport you can collect one here in Sarria at this albergue in the Monastery of La Magdalena.
Today and for the rest of the way until Santiago there is never a problem with food or water, it is rare that you are more than a few kilometres from a town or village. For example today you will walk through or pass beside 21 towns and villages.
A lot of pilgrims use Sarria as their start point, the reasons behind this is two fold. First pilgrims want to walk into Santiago rather than hike some other arbitrary 100km or 5/7 days elsewhere along the Camino France. Secondly to receive a Compostela you have to walk at least the last 100km, or cycle the last 200km and this is a convenient location to travel to.
Todays section is along small country roads and a few some country paths, it is generally tree lined and will provide good shade in the sun. The map is marked with only the towns and villages that have albergues. There are hamlets every kilometre or so, it can seem like you have just left one village as you enter the next.
The route is easier than it looks on the elevation map and should take about 5 hours of easy walking.
Barbadelo 3.4km – cafe, water
Albergue Casa Barbadelo, Vilei, private, €10, 23 beds, W, D, M, B, Bike, Tel: 982 531 934, Web: http://www.barbadelo.com/, open Easter to Nov inc.
Albergue Xunta, old school, €6, 22 beds, W, D, Tel: 660 396 814, www.xacobeo.es, open all year
Albergue A Casa de Carmen, San Silvestre, private, 210, 32 beds, M, B, @, Bike, Tel: 982 532 294, http://acasadecarmen.es/, open unknown,
Albergue O Pombal, beside Xunta, private, €10, 8 beds, W, D, K, V, Bike, Tel: 686 718 732, Web: http://www.albergueopombal.blogspot.com/, open Apr to Oct inc.
Albergue 108 to Santiago, private, €8, 12 beds, W, D, @, Bike, Tel: 634 894 524, Web: https://www.facebook.com/108tosantiago, open all year.
Albergue Molino de Marzan, 3.5km past Barbadelo, private, €10, 16 beds, W, D, K, @ Bike, Tel: 679 438 077, Web: http://www.molinomarzan.com/, open Apr to Oct inc.
In Barbadelo is Church of Santiago de Barbadelo a Galician Romanesque church which dates from the 9th century with a single aisle. The main portal has four columns each crowned with capitals which support two archivolts with a variety of carvings that include crude human figures, plants, animals, and geometric motifs. The Liber Sancti mentions Barbadelo twice providing evidence that the Camino Frances passed through this village, however the area was noted for swindling pilgrims.
Peruscallo 3.9km – there is a bar, restaurant, and water.
Morgade 4.2km, water, bar
The bar is attached to the hostel.
Albergue Casa Morgade, private, €10, 16 beds, W, D, B, M, Bike, Tel: 982 531 250, Web: http://www.casamorgade.com/, Apr to Nov inc
Ferrerios 1.7km, water
Albergue Xunta, on main road, €5, 22 beds, W, D, Tel: 982 157 496, www.xacobeo.es, open all year
Casa Cruceriro, €10, 18 beds, W, D, V, @, Tel: 639 020 064 or 982 541 240, Web: http://www.casacruceirodeferreiros.com/, open Mar to Nov
Church of Santa Maria de Ferreiros – Romanesque facade from the 12th century
Ferreiros was known for the blacksmith that provided services to pilgrims for nails studs in boots and shoeing horses.
A Pena 1.8km, water, bar
Casa do Rego, A Pena, 4, private, €10, 6 beds, W, @, Tel: 982 167 812, Web: http://www.casadorego.com/,
Mercadoiro 2.3km, water, bar
Albergue Mercadoiro, Aldea de Mercadoiro, 2, private, €10, 32 beds, W, D, M, Bike, Tel: 982 531 250, Web: http://www.mercadoiro.com/, open Mid Mar to Mid Nov.
Albergue Casa Banderas, Marker stone 91.5km, W, D, @, M, B, Bike, Tel: 982 545 391, Web: http://www.casabanderas.com/, open Apr to Oct inc
Portomarin 2.3 – all services
Albergue Xunta, Carretera de Lugo, €6, 110, W, D, Cred, Tel: 982 545 143, www.xacobeo.es, open all year
Albergue Porto Santiago, c/ Diputación, 8, private, €10, 14 beds, W, D, K, V, @, Bike, Tel: 618 826 515, Web: http://www.albergueportosantiago.com/, open Feb to Nov inc.
Albergue Ultreia, c/ Diputación, 9, private, W, D, K, V, @, Bike, Tel: 982 545 067, Web: http://www.ultreiaportomarin.com/, open all year.
Albergue Pension Manuel, Rúa do Miño, 1, private, €10, 16 beds, W, D, K, Bike, Tel: 982 545 385, Web: http://www.pensionmanuel.es/, open Apr to Oct inc.
Albergue Ferramentiero, c/ Chantada, 3, private, €10, 130 beds, W, D, K, B, @, Bike, Tel: 982 545 362, Web: http://www.albergueferramenteiro.com/, open unknown.
Albergue El Caminante, c/ Benigno Quiroga, 6, private, €10, 12 beds, W, D, M, Bike, Tel: 982 545 176, open Apr to Oct inc.
Albergue O Mirador, c/ Peregrino, 27, private, €10, 29 beds, W, D, V, B, M, @, Bike, Tel: 982 545 323, http://omiradorportomarin.com/, open all year.
Albergue Novo Porto, C/ Benigno Quiroga 12, private, €10, 25 beds, W, D, K, Tel: 982 545 277, Web: http://alberguenovoporto.com/, open all year.
Albergue Villamartin, Rúa dos Peregrinos, 11, private, €10, 20 beds, W, D, K, @ Bike, Tel: 982 545 054, Web: http://www.alberguevillamartin.es/, open May to Nov inc.
Albergue Folgueira, Avda. de Chantada 18, private, €10, 32 beds, W, D, K, Bike, @, Tel: 982 545 166, Web: http://alberguefolgueira.com/, open all year.
Ten pilgrim hostels with more than 200 beds, and even sometimes during July and August it can be difficult to find a place for the night.
Portomarin developed along both sides of the River Mino, the town was of strategic importance and always garrisoned first by the Order of Santiago then in 1188 Alfonso IX transferred ownership to the Order of San Juan de Jerusalem who maintained a pilgrim’s hospice for centuries thereafter.
In 1956 construction of the Embalse de Belesar Dam was started and completed in 1962 when the valley was flooded. During the construction period major monuments were moved block by numbered block to the new town of Portomarin. The old village is now under water and some of the building can be seen as you cross the new bridge into the town.
The Church of San Juan, (also referred to as Church of San Nicolas), is the largest single nave Romanesque church in Galicia. It was built during the late 12th and early 13th century and is also a fortress church.
Key: W = Washing, D = Drying, M = Menu, @ = Internet, K = Kitchen, B = Breakfast, V = Vending, Cred = Credential
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